Archive for the ‘Restaurants’ Category
Bouchon Bistro used to only offer fried chicken dinners once a month. Reservations filled within minutes; sometimes it felt like having one wrong lottery number. Now the odds are a little better: the crispy fried chicken in Thomas Keller’s restaurant is served twice monthly.
Although, the regular menu is available, I have to wonder why anyone would consider it. The sides, aren’t always the same, but by all accounts the chicken has a consistently high wow factor. Recently, the meal included fork-crushed potatoes, pole bean salad and Parker House rolls. The chicken is the star of the night. Plump from soaking in a lemon/herb brine for more than 12 hours, it’s deep-fried for a coating that shatters as soon as it meets your lips.
(Keller has numerous dining establishments. He’s authored several cookbooks, including Ad Hoc at Home featuring the fried chicken recipe. The description of the process and lengthy list of ingredients intrigued me, so last winter I tried it. It was good to know that, with fortitude and lots of time, the chicken can be made at home very close to what Bouchon serves. Keller also edits Finesse, a beautifully-designed magazine with articles celebrating the beauty of kitchens: design, cooking, gadgets and techniques.)
Back to that chicken, it’s juicy on the inside and crunchy on the outside for the perfect combination of texture and taste: buttermilk, rosemary and thyme. The bean salad in bacon vinaigrette, although flavorful, wasn’t as stellar as the creamy potatoes and rolls; even with a chicken-only meal I’d feel like a winner.
Bouchon Bistro
Five Plates
235 North Canon Dr.
Beverly Hills, Calif.
Food trucks are an interesting phenomenon. They have a very different persona from other dining venues. After all, the cooking takes place in hot, cramped quarters – on wheels, which means they could be gone tomorrow. However, downtown Colorado Springs has a food truck court thanks to Curbside Cuisine in the paved area of a one-time gas station. On any given day, between the hours of 6:30 a.m. and 8 p.m., made-to-order food is being served.
While perusing the menus of the various trucks (whose offerings on our recent visit included pizzas, wraps, crepes and the two we selected: Creole Kitchen and Maco’s Tacos), a woman walking away from the former, said, “The Shrimp Po’boy is to die for.” It had already caught my eye. There was further affirmation when I ordered: “That’s my best seller,” said the owner. And with good reason. Tender, lightly-breaded shrimp fried so quickly there’s no hint of oil, sit on a roll slathered with tangy remoulade loaded with lettuce and tomatoes. It could be habit forming.
The tacos were less impressive, although they’re a bargain at four for $5. The chicken was subtly seasoned, as was the pork, but both were overpowered by an abundance of diced onion and fresh cilantro – fortunately, I like those flavors. Burritos and tamales are other options at Maco’s.
The beauty of Curbside Cuisine is that the trucks are likely to consistently be in the same spot. Although, I’d follow Creole Kitchen almost anywhere.
Curbside Cuisine
Four Plates
225 N. Nevada Ave.
(Southeast corner of Nevada and Platte avenues)
Colorado Springs, Colo.
Years ago, many restaurants used to close on Mondays nights — perhaps to give staff a break after a busy weekend or to provide the kitchen a chance to restock. There’s also the possibility that the first day of the week was simply not popular for dining out, so restaurateurs decided it wasn’t worth the effort. In any case, I was surprised to discover that Sunday is the new Monday. That is, some fine dining establishments may be open for Sunday brunch, but come mid-afternoon the doors are shuttered. This year my wedding anniversary fell on Sunday. Consequently, The Blue Star was our fortuitous choice.
Apparently a lot of people like The Blue Star on Sunday nights – and with good reason. Not only is the menu inventive, but all bottles of wine are half price. The place was packed, I’m talking about the dining room not just the bar and lounge, which are routinely busy. We started with Swordfish Sugarcane Lollipops. A glistening sauce coated the grilled chunks of skewered fish which were tender with a hint of citrus and spice that found their way into the sauce. Grilled chicken topped with spinach and a roasted red pepper sauce on creamy risotto was delicately rich. Ham, mushrooms, and peas added balance. The flaky Pan Roasted Halibut was served with sweet pea pesto and pasta.
The wine list is a tome. Thanks to the Sunday night special, this made selecting a vintner even more fun than choosing our entrees.
The Blue Star
Four Plates
1645 S. Tejon St.
Colorado Springs, Colo.
Creekside dining at The Wines of Colorado provides a relaxing location; the fact that it was once a convenience store somehow adds to the experience.
One of my friends joked that The Wines should get an award for the best re-use of a 7-Eleven; she’s right. It takes a strong memory, or good imagination, to envision the space as a one-time Slurpee dispenser. The several additions – including a deck and the creekside patio – hide the past well. The restaurant is part wine shop featuring Colorado wines, what else? Since I didn’t have any, I’ll keep my opinion about that to myself.
The food, though, is inventive and surprising. I ordered a portabella stuffed with spinach, diced tomato, feta, herbs, and served with hummus and pita bread on the side. Feta isn’t one of my favorite cheeses, but its slight tanginess and gooey consistency when melted provided a palette-pleasing contrast to the mushroom’s texture. It’s hard to go wrong with smooth, earthy hummus, although I did run out of pita.
My friends ordered the salmon Cesar and the ravioli salads. The smoky, flakey salmon made the Romaine appear superfluous. The latter salad featured large raviolis on a bed of greens, which was a successful combination.
Since it was such a pleasant setting after a hot morning hike, we shared the Carrot Cake for Four. Chock-full of nuts, raisins and flecks of carrots, the rich, thick frosting was like a blanket no one needed.
Oh thank heaven for, well, Wines of Colorado.
The Wines of Colorado
Three-and-half Plates
8045 W. Highway 24
Cascade, Colo.
It’s been a while since I’ve written about dinner The Margarita at Pine Creek, one of my all-time favorite restaurants. Recently, I was there for lunch, when the choices are fewer and lighter, just right for a summer day. (Dinners are served as three or five course options.) Some things such as service, ambiance and the food are remarkable no matter when you’re there.
A good friend suggested it as the place to celebrate my birthday. He is an accomplished chef and connoisseur of fine foods. I am always happy to dine with him, not just for his good company, but also to get his take on the cuisine.
The lunch menu is strong on salads, with a few other selections, but I was immediately drawn to the Sesame Chicken Salad. My host was torn between that and the Duck Confit Salad, so he asked to substitute the duck for the chicken. Even though I was very pleased with my choice, I almost wish I had done the same.
A small loaf of fresh whole wheat bread with a ramekin of pimento cheese arrived at the table. Pimento-spimento you might say. Go ahead because then I could have the creamy, slightly tangy red-flecked spread all to myself.
The salads were large and overloaded with ingredients to augment the greens and roasted chicken/duck confit: fresh vegetables and a lightly-flavored sesame dressing.
A pecan crumb topping coffee cake was served as dessert. Although it was very good, it’s better suited to breakfast or brunch, something I’ll look forward to.
The Margarita at Pine Creek
Four-and-a-half Plates
7350 Pine Creek Rd.
Colorado Springs, CO
Located in an old strip mall, Tacqueria Los Gordos is the type of place you might be forgiven for ignoring. But don’t let the setting deter you.
A craving for quick, authentic Mexican food led us Los Gordos. One section is for take-out, and the other is a sit-down restaurant. Initially we thought we’d get the food to go, but then decided on a table in the colorful room with festive music rumbling through the speakers.
As the name implies, this is a taco place. It’s also an enchilada, tostada, relleno and torta place.
Tacos al Pastor (pork) were filled with small bites of barbequed pork and lots of cilantro. Fresh lime on the plate for squeezing over the taco contents added a layer of zestiness. The guacamole tostada featured fresh, chunky pieces of avocado topped with shredded lettuce and cheese. The only problem was the tostada shell which shattered with each bit. Still, while the shell remained in large pieces it was like a hand-held taco salad. Several tortas are featured. My husband ordered a torta which he found surprisingly spicy – and filling.
The real treat was the chile relleno. The deep fried chile was cooked perfectly without being greasy. A mild red sauce smothered the plate and the result was a meal in itself full of the depth of each element. The crunchiness of the fried batter-coated chile complemented the soft chile-cheese combo.
Taqueria Los Gordos is a good example of not judging a restaurant by its neighborhood.
Taqueria Los Gordos
Four Plates
1034 S Sable Blvd.
Aurora, CO
Although The Broadmoor Hotel is a five-star resort, with its multiple restaurants boasting accolades from various sources, not everything merits high praise. Recently, for example, the Golden Bee lacked the culinary chops of the resort’s other dining facilities, but out distances the pack when it comes to fun.
Not only was the food lackluster, but several missteps were surprising: a dirty fork and a gummy drink menu. Yet. Yes yet, we had a very enjoyable time.
The Bee is meant to evoke an English pub. The setting is beautiful and newly remodeled to accommodate a larger crowd. Some things remain, happily, the same, including the sticky bees thrown onto diners’ clothing and the yards of beer. Two of our sons ordered half-yards.
The piano, next to our table, contributed the evening’s success. Bud, the versatile pianist, struck up a conversation, and soon our youngest son, an accomplished player, was performing in his place.
In keeping with the pub theme, my husband ordered the Fish and Chips and was disappointed. Two of us ordered the Cottage Pie, beef tips with vegetables in a rich gravy beneath a golden biscuit-like crust. The vegies were inconsistently cooked and the crust was dense. The same was true of the Chicken Pot Pie. The winning dish of the night was the Bangers and Mash. A sherry sauce with onions served over the sausages created entrée-envy among us.
Nonetheless, we could not have asked for a better environment in which to consume our mostly uninspired food.
Golden Bee
The Broadmoor Hotel
Three Plates
Corner of First Street and Lake Avenue
Colorado Springs, Colo.
Beginning as a small outlet for seasonings, Garden of the Gods Gourmet has a long local history. It’s evolved as a local catering favorite and as a place to purchase upscale meals-to-go. Also, it has emerged as small, out-of-the-way lunch, and occasional dinner, spot. That latter point is precipitating an upcoming move to a larger, more visible location.
Sometime this fall, according to the market manager, it will relocate to the corner of U.S. Highway 24 and 26th Street. That will allow for longer business hours for the catering side and a bigger restaurant space. The new site should also include better ventilation.
Although it was a hot day on a recent visit, the limited shade in the patio area was far more comfortable than the stifling temperature inside. Fortunately, the soup of the day was a cold, refreshing roasted red pepper and corn which highlighted each ingredient. Along with a cup of soup, I had half of the Beef Banh Mi. Traditionally served with thinly-sliced pork, this roast beef version also featured pickled carrots, cucumbers, radishes and fresh cilantro on a baguette baked in-house. Because of the heat, and the inability to resist, we ordered the raspberry-lemon gelato. Neither flavor overwhelmed the other.
Garden of the Gods has successfully managed to remain a catering, epicurean market and restaurant with a cohesiveness that doesn’t make it feel like an establishment with multiple personalities. Its new locale is likely to better showcase its strengths.
Garden of the Gods Gourmet Café and Market
Four Plates
2528 W. Cucharras Ave.
Colorado Springs, Colo.
Bono is a better name for a rock star than a barbecue joint, especially when the latter doesn’t shine. We’ve eaten at Bono’s Pit Bar-B-Q a few times. Although the food is fine, the primary reason is for its easy access from Interstate 25.
Our most recent visit left us perplexed. A small piece of tape was placed behind every use of the word beef. I was certain what was hidden was the word brisket. Our young server assured us that Bono’s had never served brisket – unless it had been delivered by mistake. Hhhmmm… He was also unable to explain what cut of beef is served, but he tried to assure us that it was less fatty and more flavorful. That, to me, seems like an oxymoron.
So, I ordered the pulled pork sandwich and one of my sons decided to brave it out and opt for the beef, whatever it was. While good with nice texture, it lacked depth.
The pork, on the other hand, was pulled and chopped; it had plenty of fat (perhaps too much since I could distinguish it) and loads of flavor. Several sauces are kept tableside to enhance the smoky hickory taste. My favorite was the sweet and tangy, which was a great balance between the two.
Perhaps the most baffling thing about the server’s claim about brisket never being part of Bono’s offerings is that it was – still is if one removes the tape. Funny thing is the online menu hasn’t caught up. Oops!
Bono’s Pit Bar-B-Q
Three Plates
9393 East Dry Creek Rd.
Centennial, Colo.
Trust me, it’s not easy acting cool. I was tested twice in Spago when my eyes landed on Wolfgang Puck as we entered the dining room. Walking past him was one thing, but having him stop by our table to shake hands was more of a stretch. Although I wanted my picture taken with him, I worked on my nonchalance, and had a wonderful meal, albeit one sans photograph.
An early birthday lunch hosted by my mother was the occasion. This was my first visit, so I could not make any pre-renovation comparisons. The restaurant had been closed for several months. The new look is warm and modern. The menu is daunting in its variety – and price. The dining experience, from flavor profiles to service, from plating to ambiance, demonstrates Spago deserves its high praises.
We started with Agnolotti, small ravioli-like pasta filled with pea puree which tasted like spring and featured a light cream sauce and fresh peas. I ordered Lobster Salad, an ultra-Cobb featuring lobster tail, hard-boiled egg so finely diced it looked confetti, avocado, bacon, several varieties of cherry tomatoes, chives and a mix of lettuces; the parts were certainly equal to the sum.
Weiner Schnitzel, a signature dish, remains on the menu, and for good reason. It’s a large, thin cut of breaded bliss. Lemon-butter cold potato salad provided an additional burst of gusto.
Dessert further elevated the meal: Semifreddo, with fresh and dehydrated strawberries, Thai basil and shortbread, a balanced, refreshing sweet/savory combination. By meal’s end, being cool no longer mattered.
Spago
Five Plates
176 N. Canon Dr.
Beverly Hills, Calif
The Blue Page Special 