Chinese restaurants in San Francisco are more common than gas stations and 7/Elevens – combined. Somehow, Fang manages to escape the conventional in its décor and menu. Sure, there are the requisite Buddha statues and Asian artwork, nonetheless the ambiance is modern, even austere, compared to some garish counterparts.
After visiting the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art just around the corner, we opted for a late lunch at Fang. The owner, Peter Fang, has been in the restaurant business since 1988, which may explain why he seemed to lack patience as we ordered. We mistakenly asked for a brown rice bowl, instead of brown rice delight. Once we acknowledged our error, he warmed up a bit.
The dish showcases steamed browned rice, as an alternative to fried, which is mixed with caramelized onions, herbs, green beans and beef – Mr. Fang said he was out of roasted pork, our first choice. The flavorful dish was filling and left us feeling virtuous since it was so healthy.
We also tried the steamed pork buns and an order of sesame chicken. The latter featured crispy pieces of chicken with slices of sweet potato. Unlike some versions which tend to be cloying sweet, this leaned more toward the savory side of the taste scale. The pork buns were so good, we could have ordered a few more and made a meal out of them alone. With the pork balls inside silky white, slightly sweet dough, this is what a sandwich should be: fresh, creative and delicious.
Fang
Four Plates
660 Howard St.
San Francisco
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