Any place that goes by the name Hell’s Kitchen must be pretty confident that its
food is actually divine. At Ruffrano’s Hell’s Kitchen Pizza that doesn’t mean
the place is heavenly. In fact, far from it, but the pizza is, well, damned close.
Attitude is everything and the guys (I haven’t seen any women) stretching the
dough and taking the orders are no-nonsense whadda-ya-want pizza pie poten-
tates. Sometimes the pizzas are ready when expected, and other times they’re
not. You wanna make a deal out of it, go somewhere else. This isn’t something
I’ve seen or heard, it’s just a feeling; I’ve never left without my pizza though.
The crust is firm without being a brick, and thin without taking the shape of my
hand as I ate. The best thing about it is the sauce that graces the top. Thick and
full of intense tomato flavor, I almost wanted to pour it over a bowl of pasta.
Almost. The sauce with the crust and smoky mozzarella cheese is the food of
quasi- angels. We ordered Grandma’s Pie Bake, which is described as a “reverse
pan bake,” but no one explained what that means. The rectangular-shaped pizza
is simplicity at its best: sauce, cheese and basil. It’s too hearty to be a Margherita.
The only problem was charred corners. The Four Cheese White Pizza with ricotta,
mozzarella, provolone and parmesan is decadently gooey.
I recommend take-out. The surly staff may make you feel like hell, but the pizza
doesn’t.
Three-and-a-half plates
Ruffrano’s Hell’s Kitchen Pizza
9 Ruxton Ave.
Manitou Springs, CO
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